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      "NUOVO MATTINO"

EVERY GREAT WALL HAVE A GREAT STORY. THIS IS OUR STORY..

The main idea of ​​the movement was the discovery of freedom, the taste for transgression, rejecting at all costs the alpine culture of the summit and to respect the nature through a more sustainable view of the alpinism. 

There has been the refusal to reduce the mountain (and nature in general) to a simple tool, but at the same time to keep man at the center of nature.

Using specific methods of physical and mental training, technical innovations often imported from the United States (the first pioneers of free climbing experimented in those years on the rock formation of El Capitan, until then considered almost impossible to climb, in the Yosemite National Park in California), it became possible to overcome difficulties that at the time seemed insurmountable: it was the period in which smooth-soled shoes began to be used, in which free climbing developed.
After the seventies and eighties the New Morning will disappear with its contradictions, leaving only what could be consumed and massed in innovation.

There was the transition from the New Morning utopia to the materiality of sports performances.

The new morning it represents an important step on mountaineering development in Europe, which help the transition within the nazionalism trend on the alpinism through a more depth and sustainable way to get in touch with the nature. Orco Valley was the theatre of the new morning activity which is the main direction and inspiration for our project. 

In the early seventies the mountains between Turin and Gran Paradiso start to be populate with strange characters, light years away from the traditional figures of classic mountaineering.

These new climbers deny the heroic myth of the classic mountaineering which involve the ritual of the summit at all costs.
They began to question and contest the methods and aims of the classic alpinism and replace it with the new idea of ​​conquest by means of the classic routes and repeat those with consolidated techniques and methodologies.

In the small world of mountaineering that was an epochal fracture that leads to the birth of a real rebel movement, the Nuovo Mattino (from the title of an article by Gian Piero Motti on the Rivista della Montagna.), rooted in the cultural references that derive from the 1968.
  
The Turin alpinism/writer Motti guides him, a cultured and brilliant young man, an excellent climber and author of strong articles.

The protesters seek their elsewhere on the wall, a complementary but not conflicting truth with the urban experience. They refuse the general attitude of the alpine world and replace it with jeans and a T-shirt.

They open routes with symbolic names: "Itaca nel Sole", "il Lungo Cammino dei Comanches", "La Via della Rivoluzione". Inspired by the myth of Californian climbing, they find splendid gneiss walls just a few minutes from the Orco Valley road and flying fancy they call them Caporal and Sergent, in response to the legendary Captain of the Yosemite Valley.

«... I would be very happy if on these walls that new dimension of mountaineering stripped of heroism and gloriousness could evolve more and more, set instead on a serene acceptance of one's limits, in a joyful atmosphere, with the intent to derive, as in a game, the maximum possible pleasure from an activity that until now seemed to be characterized by the denial of pleasure in favor of suffering ... »

Gian Piero Motti. 1946/1983

“It was incredible, simply incredible. There was that continuous succession of granite walls, one more beautiful and larger than the other, where there was still everything to do, everything. It was like discovering a Yosemite behind the front door. For me. accustomed to the small walls of Wales and Derbyshire, exploited to the last footing, it was a paradise on earth. There was more virgin rock on the Caporal alone than in all of Snowdonia. We just had to decide where to go, it was absolutely incredible that there were still places like this. "

 

Mike Kosterlitz

Gian Carlo Grassi

This group of climbers was made up of Gian Piero Motti, Gian Carlo Grassi, Danilo Galante, Roberto Bonelli, Andrea Gobetti, Mike Kosterlitz, Ugo Manera and others. They were also called Flying Circus or Wild Pile.

The Valle dell'Orco was the main theater of the New Morning movement. The ideal place to open new routes and express their contrast with the general culture of mountaineering.

TIME LINE OF ALPINISM

 

MONT BLANC FIRST ASCEND

 

 Traditionally, the birth of mountaineering was placed on August 8, 1786, the day of the first ascent of Mont Blanc. 

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VI GRADE AND NAZIONALISM

 

The interest is no longer the conquest of the summit but to travel the still unexplored slopes or structures of the mountain (ridges, gullies, ledges);  Albert Mummery who on August 5, 1881  the top of the Grèpon (Aiguilles de Chamonix) first, overcoming difficulties up to grade IV.

In the early twentieth century the technical skills of rock climbing found an ideal expression in the sharp and slender Dolomite peaks and the Austrian limestone massifs where German-speaking mountaineers increase the grade around the V and V higher degrees. In particular, Hans Dülfer and Paul Preuss stand out. While the former admitted the use of nails to reduce the risk of falling and perhaps also to facilitate progression (Totenkirchl, west face in 1912) the latter practiced strict ethics excluding the use of artificial means and often carrying out his own businesses solo (for example Campanile Basso di Brenta, east face on July 28, 1911) .

In this period mountaineers begin to practice the mountain without guides who, especially in the exhausted post-war economies, will find themselves deprived of the wealthy customers they had designed and built the first climbs of the alpine peaks. One of the last examples of alpine guides from the "golden age" is Angelo Dibona from Cortina who made several important first ascents both in the Eastern Alps (for example Cima Una, Croz dell'Altissimo) and in the Mont Blanc group and in the Dauphiné.

 

After the First World War there was a significant increase in activity by Austrian and German mountaineers who were looking for a sort of revenge and a nationalistic affirmation.

VII GRADE - HIGH ALTITUDE 8000 M

 

 

After the tragic years of the Second World War, mountaineering activity suffered from the serious economic and social difficulties of the moment. Many of the protagonists of the enterprises of the years preceding the conflict either died or, no longer very young, had abandoned peak mountaineering.

French mountaineers (among others Gaston Rébuffat, Lionel Terray and Louis Lachenal) were the first to retrace the most difficult itineraries opened in the 1930s and 1940s in the Western Alps.

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Until the mid-sixties, mountaineering was still characterized by the progression of the degree of difficulty, especially in environmental terms (isolation, complexity) rather than pure climbing difficulty.

But above all three aspects emerge: the winter climbs, the solitary climbs and the birth  and development of high and very high altitude mountaineering with the progressive conquest of the 14 eight thousand of the Earth (see Himalayanism), which have partially rewritten the history of mountaineering and started the modern mountaineering phase.

Among Italian mountaineers the figure of Walter Bonatti emerges who will be a point of reference for international mountaineering until around 1965.  He anticipated (with his own personal and sometimes contradictory style) some trends that would emerge in the seventies and eighties such as "clean climbing" (the clean climbing, with the least use of nails and artificial aids). 

NEW MORNING 

 

TESTIMONIAL

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Maurizio Oviglia

Maurizio Oviglia (Turin, June 9, 1963) is an Italian climber, climber and writer.

The Valle dell'Orco for the most part means cracks, Caporal, Sergent ... and the mythology of the New Morning as a side dish, to fuel the desire for granite. But we Piedmontese knew the mountains first: those little granite gems that support them came well after! Since we were young we pushed ourselves into the lonely valleys of Noaschetta and Piantonetto, which like long fingers stretch out to embrace the summit of Gran Paradiso. It is a parallel and little-known world, which we have learned to attend discreetly, without great clamor: so much would never have become "fashionable".

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Enrico Camanni

Enrico Camanni (Turin, 1957) is an Italian writer, journalist and mountaineer.

At the beginning of the seventies a rebel movement was born. They are young protesters with long hair and irreverent clothes. Except that the squares prefer the mountains and seek their elsewhere and a different relationship with life and nature on the wall. The boys of the New Morning call them and this is their story, utopian and tragic. - Towards a new morning -The mountain and the sunset of utopia.

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Alessandro Gogna

Alessandro Gogna (Genoa, 29 July 1946) is an Italian mountaineer, mountain guide and mountaineering historia

In the early 70s, a new way of understanding the challenges that the mountain continually posed to mountaineers took shape, first in Turin, then in other Italian mountaineering environments. This Turin "movement" was baptized, mostly in literary terms and certainly not at that time, the New Morning. The soul of the new ferments and later "guru" of the new trends was Gian Piero Motti, a young man who had distinguished himself for the quality of his endeavors and writings.

BIBLIOGRAPHIC RESEARCH

 

Books: 

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